DIY SIM RACING PEDAL

(5 customer reviews)

19.99

What’s included :

  • CAD Model Files of the Sim Racing Pedal, it include everything
  • 4 ways of making according to your choices:
    • Lasercutting (DXF files)
    • 3D printing (STL files)
    • Hand cutting (A4 Sheets of papers PDF files)
    • CNC Machining (STEP files)
  • Arduino Sketch and Wiring diagram for Arduino Pro Micro/Leonardo USB Board
  • Complete tutorial to build the pedal without advanced skills and expensive tools
  • Complete list of all parts you need to build the pedal (screws, electronics…)
  • Free Assistance in the Help and Questions section

Informations :

  • You are going to buy a file (the CAD models of this pedal), I am not selling a physical product!
  • After your purchase, you will be able to download your file in your member area (Account > Downloads)
  • This product is protected by Licence, you are not authorized to sell or share it.
  • This product was designed to be used on PC, it is not compatible with consoles (PS4, Xbox, etc).

Description

FEATURES

• EASY TO BUILD

This building kit has been designed to be easy to build without expensive tools or advanced knowledge! A complete tutorial is provided, the goal was to make its construction as accessible as possible to the general public. In the event of a issue, the customers will receive free assistance in the “Help & Questions” section.

• CHEAP

This pedal can be built with a small budget ranging from 100€ and 300€, depending on the parameters you have chosen (production choice, USB Boards…).

• STRONG

This Pedal has a very strong structure, stable and smooth mechanism.

• ADJUSTABLE

The Pedal has been designed to allow a maximum of adjustments! You can adjust angle, hardness, stop and positioning of each pedals according to your feeling.

• REALISTIC

This Pedal offers accurate realism, with a feeling adapted to each pedals (degressive clutch, soft and hard two-phase brake, linear accelerator).

• HANDSOME

This is a very beautiful Pedal, with shapes inspired by those used in real cars, and a polished metal finish with mirror effect. The 3D Printed edition is just as pretty as the standard metallic version.

PEDAL SET

• THROTTLE

The throttle pedal is linear, you can adjust the hardness, angle, stop and the footrest position.

Concerning electronics, it’s a potentiometer fixed by two levers with a very solid structure.

DIY Sim Racing Pedal

DIY Sim Racing Pedal

• BRAKE

The brake is made up of one spring and many elastomers which enables the two stages of braking: soft then hard. The feeling is adjusted by changing the combination of elastomers and / or by tightening the spring.

The pedal is designed to take more than 100kg of pressure!

Concerning electronics, it will be a 120kg pressure sensor.

DIY Sim Racing Pedal

DIY Sim Racing Pedal

• CLUTCH

The clutch is almost similar to the throttle, but has a degressive mechanism allowing to simulate the clutch of a real car (only the 3D Printed Edition is linear).

DIY Sim Racing Pedal

DIY Sim Racing Pedal

REVIEW

IN-GAME TRIAL

PEDAL BUILDING

BUILDING OF THE 3D PRINTED EDITION

ADDITIONAL TUTORIALS

Parts buying guide: Springs and Elastomers

Parts buying guide: Electronics

• POTENTIOMETERS AND LOADCELL
• USB BOARDS (only one of them is mandatory)
• WIRING
• ALTERNATIVE CASES FOR THE USB BOARD

Parts buying guide: Tools

• MACHINING
• SANDING AND POLISHING
• ASSEMBLY
• SOLDERING

Required Screws

Screws for Lasercutting-Handcutting-CNC [PDF]

Screws for 3D Printed Version [PDF]

Aliexpress screws:

Parts compatibility

You can use others parts to build this pedal (apart from those listed in the required parts section), but you will need to check that they are compatible.

• POTENTIOMETERS

Ohm : 10k is recommanded, but 100k can also work (it depends at the USB Board)
Thread : between Ø6mm and Ø9mm
Shaft diameter : not to exceed Ø7mm

• LOADCELL

Weight : not below 100kg.
Loadcell dimensions:

DIY Loadcell Sim Racing Pedal


• ELASTOMERS

Ø Inside diameter: min. 8mm, max. 10mm
Ø Outside diameter: not to exceed 35mm.

• SPRINGS

ØInside diameter: not below 8.5mm
ØOutside diameter: not to exceed 28mm

If you use springs with different dimensions, I advise you to create the spring centralizer part. You will need to download Freecad (it’s a free software) and read the tutorial that is provided. Everything is in the Alternative spring centralizer folder.

• ALTERNATIVE FOOTREST :

Material of the pedal

• LASERCUTTING

I recommend stainless steel.

For the few parts that need to be machined, I recommend aluminum because it is softer.

The parts that require machining are the following:
– Countersunks holes for the Footrests
– 2 holes to drill and tap for the potentiometer levers

All these machining operations can be avoided if you use 3D printing alternatives.

• 3D PRINTING

I recommand PLA or ABS, the filling will vary according to the pieces, and it will be indicated in the name of the files.  Here are recommendations for printing 3D solid parts: https://3dpros.com/guides/optimizing-part-strengt

• HAND CUTTING AND CNC MACHINING

I recommend aluminum because it is a soft metal that is easy to work with.

How to get the required materials

• LASERCUTTING

I advise you to use the 3mm and 5mm “All-in-One” DXF files and request a quote from lasercutting companies near your home. All parts are flat, there are none to bend. So you can compare prices and choose the most profitable. On average, the asking price for cutting a stainless steel pedal is between 100€ and 150€ including VAT and shipping. You can save money if you make a combined order.

For France and Europe, I recommend the company ALPM, they provide a very good quality cut for a reasonable price.

• 3D PRINTING

You can buy a 3d printer, or find a 3d printing service like treatstock. Don’t forget the infill percentage if you want a strong product (especially for the brake pedal). The longest part that need to be printed is 220mm.

• HANDCUTTING

You need only sheets of papers, printer and Aluminium plates !

• CNC MACHINING

I recommand CNC Machining only if you own a CNC Rooter, otherwise it is not economically profitable enough compared to lasercutting.

• SCREWS

Bolt depot, Motedis and FixnVis.

Tolerances

Lasercutting DXF files and CNC Machining files : 0.2mm

3D Printing : 0.6mm

5 reviews for DIY SIM RACING PEDAL

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Customer Images

Image #1 from Jeremy Black
Image #2 from Jeremy Black
Image #3 from Steffen Röthling
Image #4 from Julian Zelaya
Image #5 from Julian Zelaya
Image #1 from Jeremy Black

Jeremy Black

Very impressed with these! Thank you so much for putting together all the documentation and files. I was only able to get 7ga steel here in the states so I adjusted the slots for the difference in size. The pedals went together and installed/calibrated with no problems, after a very speedy response on an issue that ended up being my fault. I used plain carbon steel and then used a black oxide finish with a acrylic finish to protect it. The only thing I "added" or "upgraded" was the spacer for arms that connect the potentiometer, I couldn't get the joints tight enough that they wouldn't have any slop but still move freely without sticking. I ended up getting some small M6 thrust bearings off amazon for a few bucks. Now I can tighten the joints snug, and they still are silky smooth. Also make sure to lube the brake M8 bolt where it goes through the elastomer bushings, this pretty much stopped any squeaking from that, and if the throttle or clutch springs squeak, try rotating them a bit to find where they don't. Worked for me. Again thank you very much, looking forward to building the handbrake!!

(2) (0)
Image #2 from Jeremy Black

Jeremy Black

Very impressed with these! Thank you so much for putting together all the documentation and files. I was only able to get 7ga steel here in the states so I adjusted the slots for the difference in size. The pedals went together and installed/calibrated with no problems, after a very speedy response on an issue that ended up being my fault. I used plain carbon steel and then used a black oxide finish with a acrylic finish to protect it. The only thing I "added" or "upgraded" was the spacer for arms that connect the potentiometer, I couldn't get the joints tight enough that they wouldn't have any slop but still move freely without sticking. I ended up getting some small M6 thrust bearings off amazon for a few bucks. Now I can tighten the joints snug, and they still are silky smooth. Also make sure to lube the brake M8 bolt where it goes through the elastomer bushings, this pretty much stopped any squeaking from that, and if the throttle or clutch springs squeak, try rotating them a bit to find where they don't. Worked for me. Again thank you very much, looking forward to building the handbrake!!

(2) (0)
Image #3 from Steffen Röthling

Steffen Röthling

very nice, happy with the pedals. genius Plans, Thank You for your work!

(2) (0)
Image #4 from Julian Zelaya

Julian Zelaya

The pedals design is amazing, they look great. And they work as they look. Keep up the good work

(2) (0)
Image #5 from Julian Zelaya

Julian Zelaya

The pedals design is amazing, they look great. And they work as they look. Keep up the good work

(2) (0)
Image #6 from Julian Zelaya

Julian Zelaya

The pedals design is amazing, they look great. And they work as they look. Keep up the good work

(2) (0)
Image #1 from Jeremy Black
Image #2 from Jeremy Black
Image #3 from Steffen Röthling
Image #4 from Julian Zelaya
Image #5 from Julian Zelaya
Image #6 from Julian Zelaya
1-5 of 5 reviews
  1. This is excellent pedals, very easy to following steps and complete list of parts needed.

    (1) (0)
  2. Very impressed with these! Thank you so much for putting together all the documentation and files. I was only able to get 7ga steel here in the states so I adjusted the slots for the difference in size. The pedals went together and installed/calibrated with no problems, after a very speedy response on an issue that ended up being my fault. I used plain carbon steel and then used a black oxide finish with a acrylic finish to protect it. The only thing I “added” or “upgraded” was the spacer for arms that connect the potentiometer, I couldn’t get the joints tight enough that they wouldn’t have any slop but still move freely without sticking. I ended up getting some small M6 thrust bearings off amazon for a few bucks. Now I can tighten the joints snug, and they still are silky smooth. Also make sure to lube the brake M8 bolt where it goes through the elastomer bushings, this pretty much stopped any squeaking from that, and if the throttle or clutch springs squeak, try rotating them a bit to find where they don’t. Worked for me.
    Again thank you very much, looking forward to building the handbrake!!

    Image #1 from Jeremy Black
    Image #2 from Jeremy Black
    (2) (0)
  3. very nice, happy with the pedals. genius Plans, Thank You for your work!

    Image #1 from Steffen Röthling
    (2) (0)
  4. The pedals design is amazing, they look great. And they work as they look. Keep up the good work

    Image #1 from Julian Zelaya
    Image #2 from Julian Zelaya
    Image #3 from Julian Zelaya
    (2) (0)
  5. Les plans sont au top, je dirai qu’il manque juste a intégré la liste des matériaux (meme si présente sur le site)

    (2) (0)
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Post here your issues or your questions, I will answer you as soon as possible.


Guest
Rabe
2 years 3 days ago

Bonjour,
J’aurai aimé avoir quelques infos avant d’acheter le fichier. La plus grosse pièce fait combien de cm svp? J’ai une delta avec plateau rond de 26cm,pour savoir si ça tient dessus.
Cordialement

Support
DIY Sim Studio
2 years 3 days ago

Bonjour,
La pièce la plus longue fait 22cm, donc aucun soucis avec votre imprimante

Bien cordialement

Customer
Julian Zelaya
1 year 2 months ago

Hello! I am struggling to make the code work. I cheked every wire connection just like the picture, but when i put the code into the pro micro board. Just the potenciometers worked, not the loadcell brake. Best regards

Support
DIY Sim Studio
1 year 2 months ago

Hi Julian, I send you a solution in your mail. 😉

Customer
John Jose
1 year 1 month ago

Hi same issue as Julina Zelaya load cell is not detected. I dit try with a basic sketch for load cell and it does detect and return values

Support
DIY Sim Studio
1 year 1 month ago

Hi John,

I think the issue is from the arrow direction of the load cell fixation in the pedal.

Have you try to change this line :

Brake = scale.get_units(); // If the Brake pedal value is inverted put a – sign in front like -scale.get

Best regards,
DIY SIM STUDIO

Customer
Alex
1 year 1 month ago

Hi, could you clarify from all the available USB board options what the pros and cons of each of them are?
Thanks

Support
DIY Sim Studio
11 months 23 days ago

Hi Alex, sorry for the response delay.
It depend to your budget. The cheapest boards are the Arduino Pro Micro and Leonardo, they provide a good quality and accuracy, but you will do more Soldering. The best cards are the Leobodnar LC-USB 16-bit and BU0836-LC, they are plug & play, need less soldering but they are more expensive.

Customer
Jeremy Black
11 months 13 days ago

Hello,
The pedals went together great, however the load cell only reads from 0% to 6% back to 0 when I push the pedal. I’ve verified the correct direction for the load cell by the arrow and the wiring, any ideas what I could be missing? I’m using the LC-USB-16-bit and the 120kg load cell you have linked.

Support
DIY Sim Studio
11 months 13 days ago

Hello Jeremy,
Can you switch the green and white wire that are connected to the Leobodnar board ?

Customer
Jeremy Black
11 months 11 days ago

Ah yes! That did the trick, thanks! Now iRacing has an issue that it says configure controls even after I complete the wizard haha, I think I need to delete my controller config file in the ini. But anyway I appreciate the quick response and awesome product!

Support
DIY Sim Studio
11 months 7 days ago

You’re welcome Jeremy ^^
Thanks you, don’t hesitate to write a review of your pedal when it’s finished ;).

Customer
Dario Oppitz
11 months 5 days ago

Hi, I’d like to use the optional brass bushings. In order to do that I wanted to change the axis hole size in the DXF file. However, I noticed If I did so, there wouldn’t be much material left between the hole and the closest outer edge. Could I move the edge out by 1mm or would it interfere with any other parts?

Support
DIY Sim Studio
11 months 5 days ago

Hello Dario,
The hole of the axis is 10mm diameter, you can find brass bushing with 10mm external diameter in AliExpress (the link is in the page of the pedal). If you change the axis position and diameter it can interfer with the pedal stop, so I don’t recommend to do that.
Here is the link for the self lubricated brass : https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_ArKFSI
You must find the one who has 10mm external diameter.

Guest
Langlois
9 months 14 hours ago

Bonjour, j’hesite a acheter les plans pour le realiser en feuille aluminium de 3mm, puis-je m’attendre a une bonne finition avec la decoupe au cutter ? La rigidite sera t elle aussi bonne ?
Cela a t’il deja ete realiser en alu?

Cordialement

Support
DIY Sim Studio
9 months 11 hours ago

Bonjour,
Pour la rigidité, aucun problème avec l’aluminium.
Pour la découpe, il faudrait une scie sauteuse ou une bonne petite scie manuelle avec une lime. Avec un cutter ce n’est pas la peine ça ne marchera pas, surtout qu’il y aussi des pièces avec 5mm d’épaisseur. Il y a une vidéo sur la page qui montre une façon de découper les plaques en aluminium. Réfléchissez bien avant de partir sur ce projet.

Bien cordialement.

Guest
Andreas
8 months 16 days ago

Hey,
im having issues with jumpy potentiometers when my direct drive wheel is on. i used shielded wires and even grounded the pedals, control box and the servo motor. i soldered the shield to ground on both sides. anything i can do to help with my issue?

Support
DIY Sim Studio
8 months 16 days ago

Hi Andreas,

What is the model of the potentiometers and the usb board of the pedal?

Bests regards
DIY SIM STUDIO

Guest
Tyler
7 months 27 days ago

Hello, before I purchase i have a question.
Are the plans different between the ways of making it?
If i go 3d printed with a cheap board will I easily be able to swap to steel and higher end parts later of?
Thank you!

Support
DIY Sim Studio
7 months 27 days ago

Hello,
You can use the electronics (board, potentiometers and loadcell) and springs/bushing/rodend of the 3D Printed Pedal in the stainless steel pedal without any problems.

Guest
MIka
7 months 24 days ago

Hello, I was wondering wihich USB BOARD do you recomend to use on this project

Support
DIY Sim Studio
7 months 24 days ago

Hello Mlka,
It depend to your budget. The cheapest boards are the Arduino Pro Micro and Leonardo, they provide a good quality and accuracy, but you will do more Soldering. The best cards are the Leobodnar LC-USB 16-bit and BU0836-LC, they are plug & play, need less soldering but they are more expensive.

Customer
Lawrence Zapata
6 months 27 days ago

Is there any way for me to get the step file of the project? I just bought the Pedal Kit and i would like to open the model in Solidworks.

Support
DIY Sim Studio
6 months 27 days ago

Hello, the step files are included in the CNC folder. But the assembly is not included.

Best regards.

Guest
Floris
6 months 23 days ago

In the material list there is the section “USB BOARDS (only one of them is mandatory”. does this mean that I only can choose between the first and second leobodnar boards and do i need to buy HX711 loadcell amplifier?

Support
DIY Sim Studio
6 months 23 days ago

Hello,
If you buy a Leobodnar board, you don’t need Hx711 amplifier. The amplifier is only for Arduino.

You need only one Leobodnar board, the LC-USB 16-bit or the BU0836-LC, they are plug & play, need less soldering but they are more expensive.

Best regards,
DIY SIM STUDIO

Guest
Floris
6 months 23 days ago

That mean that i also dont need to buy | DiyMore Arduino Leonardo board [Quantity: 1] Note: only with HX711 Loadcell Amplifier | Arduino Pro Micro [Quantity: 1] [Option: Mini USB 3-6V] Note: only withHX711 loadcell Amplifier?

Support
DIY Sim Studio
6 months 23 days ago

Yes, if you buy an Leobodnar board you don’t need Arduino or Hx711.

Guest
Floris
6 months 23 days ago

Thank you!

Support
DIY Sim Studio
6 months 23 days ago

You’re welcome. 👍

Guest
Floris
6 months 23 days ago

Hello, i got two questions. The first one is i want to make only the throttle and break what do i not need from the “all in one” 3mm and 5mm .dxf and do i need to make treads in the aluminum if i print the “recommanded 3d parts? And “mandatory 3d parts”?

Support
DIY Sim Studio
6 months 23 days ago

Hello,
The “all in one” files are only for the 3 pedal, if you need only 2 pedal you can use files in the folders.
Only the mandatory 3D parts must be printed, the recommended aren’t mandatory.

Guest
Floris
6 months 23 days ago

Hello, if i make it from aluminum and print the “recommanded and mandatory 3d parts” do i need to tread the aluminum? And i want to make the throttle and brake what do i not need from the “all-in one” 3mm and 5mm .dxf

Support
DIY Sim Studio
6 months 23 days ago

Hello,
You can avoid to thread aluminium with the alternative 3D printed parts.
If you want to make only throttle and brake, you can use files in the folders instead all in one file.

Guest
Floris
6 months 22 days ago

Can i send you a message on instagram? To send some photos

Support
DIY Sim Studio
6 months 22 days ago

Yes you can.

Guest
Kediz
6 months 20 days ago

My only question is that is the p260 potentiometer an absolute necessary option

Support
DIY Sim Studio
6 months 20 days ago

Hello,

The p260 potentiometer is not necessary, you can use the potentiometer of your choice. You can check the compatibility on this page : PARTS COMPATIBILITY > Potentiometers

Best regards,
DIY SIM STUDIO

Guest
Thomas
6 months 2 days ago

Hi,
I have purchased the plans, and have access to Large CNC router to cut aluminium, Would there be any issue cutting it all in 5mm (other than changing the slots from 3mm to 5mm – as I can adjust the file to suit)? I’m trying to make it stiff and durable – but am unable to use stainless. Many thanks.

Support
DIY Sim Studio
6 months 2 days ago

Hello Thomas,

You need to respect the 3mm and 5mm thickness, don’t worry the pedal will be very strong with 3mm aluminium plates.

Best regards,
DIY SIM STUDIO

Guest
Garry
5 months 10 days ago

i watched the video and wondering do i need to use the “Leonardo R3 Plus Development Board Pro” from DIYmore or any other arduino board is fine? because i can’t really get the DIYMore one easily.

Support
DIY Sim Studio
5 months 10 days ago

Hi Barry,
The link of the Leonardo board is on the description: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDY2r8v

Best regards,
DIY SIM STUDIO

Guest
Endika
4 months 11 days ago

Hello! I am thinking of buying to try and do them. However i have a question, in the brake pedal, why is it 100KG? How many KG does the spring support? How could i make it be heavier, what could i improve?

Support
DIY Sim Studio
4 months 9 days ago

Hello Endika,

The pressure of 100 kg is the minimum pressure required, but you can without problem use a 150 kg sensor for example. Don’t worry, the brake pedal is very solid regarding pressure. Of course, your sensor must conform to the dimension (see the documentation on loadcell sensor compatibility).

Best regards,
DIY SIM STUDIO

Guest
Ashley
3 months 16 days ago

Hi can i use a arduino nano instead of a pro micro i purchased the wrong board?

Support
DIY Sim Studio
3 months 16 days ago

Hello Ashley,

You can’t use Arduino Nano board because it’s not an atmega32u4 microcontroller.

Best regards,
DIY SIM STUDIO

Guest
Ashley
3 months 16 days ago

Thank you for response

Guest
Robert Wilsdorf
13 days 16 hours ago

Hi
I built only the brake and throttle pedals. How do I need to change the Arduino code and wiring to make this work? I tried what I think was the most obvious but it’s not working. I am using a Pro Micro and Hx711. DIView shows Rx = flickering Ry = no reading and Rz working with throttle and seems correct.

Guest
Robert Wilsdorf
13 days 2 hours ago

Hi
I managed to get it working. I used wrong pin for Rx and Load Cell needs more volts than E+ supply from Hx711. I used a 200kg load cell because of availability and this specific cell operates between 5V and 12V. HX711 only supplies 4.3V. I ordered a 150kg load cell and should get it later this week.

Support
DIY Sim Studio
13 days 1 hour ago

Hello Robert,

I’m glad you found the solution to your issue. Do not hesitate to come back to me if you have any problems.

Best regards
DIY SIM STUDIO

Customer
RICARDO DE ALMEIDA
13 days 5 hours ago

Hello!
Is there a possibility of replacing the potentiometers with a linear hall effect sensor, like the SS49E?

Support
DIY Sim Studio
13 days 1 hour ago

Hello Ricardo,

The pedal was designed to be used with a potentiometer, not a linear hall sensor, so I can’t confirm if your hall sensor will work.

Best regards,
DIY SIM STUDIO

Guest
Thomas
6 days 22 hours ago

Morning, I have setup all 3 pedals but the load cell is not registering any input using a hx711 and CZL-601 120kg loadcell. Any ideas how to fix?
Thanks

Support
DIY Sim Studio
6 days 15 hours ago

Hi Thomas,

Did you try to make an inverted pressure?

Best regards,
DIY SIM STUDIO

Guest
Thomas
5 days 22 hours ago

I’ve done that, it now works. Many thanks

Support
DIY Sim Studio
5 days 11 hours ago

You’re welcome.

Best regards,
DIY SIM STUDIO